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A place does not reveal itself to a visitor in a hurry. Hotels taught me the art of hospitality, and I am grateful for every lesson. Its meaning I learned as a guest with nowhere to be: lounging on the deck of a catamaran, on an island reached by water, at a table set by the host who cooked every dish herself, from scratch. Letting the place set the pace Aboard a forty-five-foot catamaran in the British Virgin Islands, with a captain and crew caring for everything else, the d